I wanted to make this trip so I can stay "connected" to Hong Kong, even though it doesn't feel as much like home any more in the past few years. As I don't need to find a hotel, the cost of the trip will be minimal beyond the plane ticket.
The ticket was relatively inexpensive, and the LAX-HKG upgrade was cleared soon after I booked. First to Premium Plus, followed by Business. When I changed the departure date by one day, I lost the confirmed Prem Plus (HINT: it appears if you change a flight, the itinerary is "reset"); but that was re-confirmed soon after the rebooking, followed by a business class upgrade. And I got a credit when the new itinerary was repriced. Those upgrades are for the trans-Pacific legs, trans-continental upgrades are a lot more harder to come by. (I did get upgraded EWR-LAX, more on this later.)
To Anne low cost isn't enough of a reason to travel, so she gave the trip a pass. We may travel to Hong Kong in early 2025 with Ellie's family, I am sure she would gladly make that trip.
Thursday 11/14. Anne dropped me off at Terminal C. I had two bottles of wine so had to check in my suitcase. The touchless ID check-in counters are located at the end of the terminal, but I approached a "manual" station, so ended up getting luggage tags from a person anyway.
Touchless ID worked very well with TSA. At Newark there is no reason to use CLEAR, even though I got it for free through United. The process (from getting off the car to through security) took 10 minutes. I had time to stop by the Polaris Lounge and got something to eat.
United doesn't fly non-stop Newark - Hong Kong anymore, so my itinerary was to be EWR-LAX-HKG, with only an one-hour connection at LAX. United international operations at LAX are quite compact, with most flights leaving from a few gates (#70s), and all its operations are in Terminal 7, so a tight connection shouldn't be a problem. Didn't turn out okay.
It started with the scheduled 787-10 aircraft not being available, so a 787-9 was used instead. The -10 holds more passengers than the -9, so many customers had problems with their new seat assignments, and the new plane would be relatively fuller. I actually got reassigned from a center aisle seat to a window aisle seat. Not ideal, but okay since it is Economy Plus. We then had to wait for a paperwork issue to be resolved, followed by more time for luggage, and then some catering items that are "no go" (maybe water?). That took about one hour to resolve. Parallel processing remains an alien concept for the airlines. We didn't push back until 7:54 pm, for a 6:45 pm departure. Connection at LAX was 1 hour 5 minutes. Still possible as the flight time was shorter than the blocked time.
We barely moved for about 30 minutes, then the pilot came on the PA (at 8:25 pm) and said we were number 25 for take off. She estimated 25 minutes (one minute per takeoff is very aggressive), at 9:11 am the flight attendants were to be seated, which usually meant 10 minutes or so to takeoff roll. Not today, the plane was wheels up at 9:30 pm, and ETA arrival was 11:40 pm, about an hour after UA152 LAX-HKG was to take off.
One positive thing that happened was I got upgraded to Premium Economy as the person in 20F was upgraded to Business. As a result I managed a short nap. During the flight I used the United App to change my flight to UA801 leaving the next morning, and chatted on line with an agent to get hotel and meal vouchers.
Food at EWR Polaris Lounge.
Even at this point there was still a good chance I could make the LAX-HKG flight. Screen shot at 6:54 pm, scheduled departure 6:45 pm.
Screen shot at 8:55 pm. Plane didn't take off until 9:30 pm, and landed at 11:45 pm. Our missed connected flight was wheels up at 11:30 pm. The scheduled gate departure was 10:55 pm. They didn't even bother to wait.
Both Business and Premium Economy cabins were full, but coach was wide open.
Dinner for Premium Economy passengers on a domestic flight.
Of the several airport hotel options offered, I picked Renaissance thinking it would provide better service, as my experience with them (mostly in Europe) has been great. Not today. First the shuttle didn't show up for 30 minutes, and it was full so many couldn't get on. The guy whose Prem Econ seat I took was one of those who couldn't get on, and he called a Lyft and invited people to go with him. I was the only taker. (He and his partner were flying to Melbourne, missed their flight, and had to wait two days before United could find two seats for them.) There was quite a line waiting to check-in. The line moved reasonably quickly, but it was about 1 am that I got into the room.
Accommodation: Renaissance LAX (1 night).
Friday 11/15. United has two EWR-LAX flights a day, I managed to keep the Polaris upgrade, and stopped by the LAX Polaris lounge for some breakfast before boarding the plane. The $40 in vouchers ended up not being used, which was okay. While Business and Prem Econ cabins were full, coach was quite empty, may be not even half full.
Breakfast at LAX Polaris Lounge.
Steak for lunch. A bit on the dry and tough side.
Snack of tomato soup and grilled cheese.
This breakfast is quite carb-heavy. And it was served on Nov. 16.
Accommodations: Overnight in plane (UA801).
Saturday 11/16. UA801 landed slightly ahead of schedule, although for me the trip ended 12 hours late. The luggage transfer to the new flight was problem-free, the wine bottles didn't break, and it didn't take that long to show up even though it was the last to come onto the carousel - we deplaned at 7:10 pm, luggage arrived at 7:40 pm.
After a simple dinner at Tai Hing, the usual Airport Express and taxi got me to Causeway Bay. It has been a while since there was a queue for taxis at HKG station. The taxi driver told me things hadn't improved that much; it was probably the rain and time of day.
I was planning to join Tim in a visit to DBS to see a Boat Model collection, and have lunch afterwards. Those didn't work out because of my late arrival.
Usually the flight from LAX-HKG is routed along the west coast, followed by the Aleutian Islands, then the east coast of Asia. Today it just flew up the San Francisco, then a straight path across the Pacific.
Some flight statistics. The entire flight lasted 15:34 hours. One could do non-stop EWR-HKG for less time than that.
Accommodation: CWB Apartment (rest of trip, 8 nights).
Sunday 11/17. Lunch was with Tim, Whitney, Alyson, and Johnson at the Ocean Park Fullerton Hotel. Afterwards I went to DBS to see the Exhibition I planned to see yesterday. Airside is a shopping mall built at the site of the old Kai Tak Airport, I went and walked around a little. Quite busy, but to me it's simply another high-end shopping mall. The old airport is now a cruise terminal and a soon-to-be-open sports complex and park (perhaps even bigger than Victoria Park).
Dinner was at Cafe de Coral. I randomly sat next to another man of about my age. He emigrated to Australia in the 1980s, and is returning for a visit. We had a pleasant conversation, touching on various topics, including religion.
The construction site across the street from the apartment. A commercial building is being built on the left, and government offices on the right. Same construction company. On the right excavation is still going on: a digger would pile up dirt, a scooper would then transport it to a waiting truck. Looks like well-choreographed activity. Not much margin of error, though. The display outside the site says it's been accident-free for the last several months (display is for year 2024).
Lunch at Ocean Park Fullerton Hotel, Jade Restaurant.
Steven Chow was a few years ahead of me at DBS. He began building model battleships a few years ago. There was an exhibition at the DBS Arts Center.
In front of the school entrance.
Airside is a new mall built near the old Kai Tak airport. It was very busy on a Sunday afternoon.
Monday 11/18. I had a morning zoom meeting with CAC. Usually I take these in NJ on Sunday evening.
Pauline, whom we know from church for many years, is in Hong Kong for a few weeks. We met up at Airside (close to where she is staying) for lunch at The Chatterbox. Airside wasn't nearly as busy as yesterday.
Dinner was at the "Kam Roast Duck Restaurant" in South China Sports Club, with Joe Tang, Alex, and Eden. Afterwards we walked to Victoria Park so Eden could play, followed by dessert in Tin Hau. It was 9:30 pm or so when I got back to the apartment.
Lunch with Pauline at Chatterbox at Airside.
Dinner with Joe Tang's family at the Kamcentre at South China Sports Association.
Tuesday 11/19. I attended the monthly Cornell lunch, at Sang Kee in Wanchai. Saw a few new people, and several whose names I have forgotten. I then rushed off to HK Club to have coffee with Larry.
A complete set for less than US$10. The rice was supposed to be slightly burnt, it was too much so.
Wednesday 11/20. I started the day with a Zoom call with Peter R.
Joe T's family can be traced back to a village in Tin Shui Wai since the 14th Century. He has an ancestral home that is not used much nowadays. I made my way to TSW, had lunch in the market next to the station, and then visited the Ping Shan Tang Family Museum. In the museum is a genealogy book that lists all the descendants since that first Tang (perhaps only sons for a long time). The book is supposed to be a replica of a hand-copied version, as the handwriting seems to be the same throughout. (Anne has a similar genealogy book, but doesn't go back that long, thus much thinner.) I spent my earliest years in the Saikung area of Hong Kong (East New Territories) and must say the practices I observed bear a lot of resemblance. Perhaps the Saikung people are descendants of the Tang clan, or the Tang clan were better historians.
I had lunch at the restaurant (called BaBa) at the market next to the Tin Shui Wai MTR station. Turns out there were quite a few mere steps away that I could have picked. The meal was okay.
The Ping Shan Tang Clan Museum is located in a former police station. It dates back to the early 20th century (1905, if memory serves). Why did they need such a fancy police station in TSW?
The replica genealogy book, in front of a photo of the Tang Ancestral Hall.
With Joe T in the actual village ancestral hall.
Tim recently bought an apartment in Tai Tam. He took me to have a look at the apartment under renovation; Whitney joined us for dinner at the block's club house.
I couldn't resist, so went to Mak's for wonton and dumpling noodle soup.
Thursday 11/21. There is a WhatsApp group of DBS Boy Scouts in the 1970s, I was a scout leader (instructor) in 1969 and 1970, so I know quite a few of them. The majority of the group (about 2/3 per the group administrator) and they get together quite regularly. Turns out about 5 people are from out of town, so we got together for lunch at No. 8 Victoria Road. It was good to see old classmates. There is talk of a reunion next year.
Joe T was to meet with a potential Hope donor at the Yacht club, and invited me to come along. Turns out Edwin's parents knew Anne's parents very well, so we marveled at how "small" the world was.
Boy Scouts Kowloon Troup #6.
The contingent from overseas. Hadn't worn a scout scarf for a long time.
Meeting with a potential Hope supporter at the Hong Kong Yacht Club (it still has "Royal" in its name, technically).
Per Google Lens, these are black-collared starlings, common in SE Asia. They are a lot bigger than the starlings we see in NJ. And noisy. First time I saw/noticed them.
I joined Ron W's Zoom Bible study.
Friday 11/22. I caught up with Nathan early this morning. He picked a traditional HK coffee shop, which surprised me a bit: our prior coffees were always at rather fancy coffee houses.
Yesterday I stopped by an optical shop to get a spare set of glasses, taking advantage of the health vouchers HK seniors get. To get the account set up, I went to their Fortress Hill shop.
Went to the optical shop on 11/21, picked these up on 11/23.
The Hope event was held in the Admiralty Center. Junver from the Philippines was the guest. He explained some of the projects being started in various parts of the world.
Joe T using a paved road turning into a dirt road to illustrate how underdeveloped communities do not receive the help they need.
Joe T and Junver discussing some of the new countries served by Hope International.
Saturday 11/23. I stopped by Joe T's apartment at the Convention Plaza Apartments (they are house-sitting for the owner). Since he had to look after Eden, we ended up having some of the leftover from last evening's event for breakfast.
During this trip I saw a lot of Eden, it took her a while to warm up to me, but we were good friends by this time. In Joe T's apartment in Wanchai.
One of the places I wanted to visit was the Hong Kong Palace Museum, and I got to do that. When I visited Beijing's Palace Museum (decades ago, located in the Forbidden Palace), I was quite disappointed at how little information was provided for the visitor (e.g., labeling a throne "throne" wasn't the most helpful). Things looked a lot more professional today. Most of the displayed items (except replicas) were sourced from the Palace Museum. I wonder if the curator just did the best with what the "mother Museum" was willing to part with, as I didn't find much coherence in the messages the displays were trying to say.
There was a pavilion on the "Origins of Chinese Civilisation," which date back to about 8000 BP (before present, so 6000 BC). Recent excavations have unearthed many different cultures. If what I gleaned from looking at the exhibits is any clue, many of those unearthed civilizations remain "mysterious," and unconnected; even less is known about how they evolved and combined to become today's Chinese civilization, if at all.
Interesting architecture. I expected something more traditional Chinese looking.
Inside the museum.
View of Hong Kong Island from the Museum terrace.
Exhibit at Hall 1 of the museum is devoted to the Palace Museum in Beijing, dating back about 600 years.
Chart showing the ancient four civilizations. I was unclear from my visit how the three Chinese civilizations merged to become today's Chinese civilization (if they did so at all).
What is civilization?
These small earthenware figures date back to 5300-3800 BP. Displays for the Civilization exhibit are on loan from various museums in China. The Shijiahe site is in the Yangtze River area.
Pottery from the Yangshao site 6000-5000 BP. They remind me of ancient Greek pottery, more elaborate, but much younger (maybe 1000 BC?).
French Toast at 168 Gloucester Road, Wanchai (Hon Fat Cafe). Sweetened condensed milk was an optional substitute for maple syrup. Not what I was looking for.
After collecting my new glasses, I went to the American Club to meet up with Daniel L for coffee and a light snack, and then we took the ferry to the Cultural Center to listen to a pre-concert talk, followed by the concert. It was a rather long concert (ended after 10:15 pm). Daniel and I caught the MTR together; I got off at CWB, he would continue to Chai Wan, then a minibus back to Tai Tam, where he lives.
Since I didn't have dinner, I stopped by a cafe for some noodles before I returned to the apartment.
Preconcert talk at the Cultural Center. The speaker suggested we go for rhythm and timbre. Indeed the other attributes were difficult to get in the piece by Angus Lee.
James Ehnes played the Tchaikovsky violin concerto.
I ordered this dish just before the cafe closed. Evidently the cook was in a hurry also. Tasted fine.
The apartment in CWB is about 10 minutes from the MTR station, and Hong Kong's labyrinth of elevated walkways are mostly unsigned or poorly signed, so I did a lot of double backs. One also takes steps up/down the walkways and MTR platforms. These all translate to a lot of steps and miles. Today's was the most for this trip: about 20,000 steps, 9 miles, and 28 flights (per Apple Watch).
Apple Watch screen shot at 11:26 pm. I probably moved enough to round off the steps and distance to 22,000 and 9.00 miles. Or, maybe not.
Sunday 11/24. As I type this (at SFO United Club Sunday evening) I could barely remember this missed connection at LAX a little over a week ago.
Kenneth and Anna invited Tim, Whitney and me to lunch at the Country Club. Kenneth and Anna are avid travellers, and they were talking about their recent trip to Yang Zhou, well-known for the fried rice. It was a lot more than that, and evidently the infrastructure in China has improved a lot since our last visit. The food (dim sum) was quite good also.
At the Country Club Chinese Restaurant.
Close up shot of desserts.
I caught a ride on Tim's boat from Deep Water Bay to Aberdeen Marina Club. We then walked to the new "Southside" area with its many shops. I caught the MTR to CWB, Tim and Whitney stayed behind to watch a movie at the cinema.
After grabbing a late lunch at Fairwood, it was time to return to CWB to pack. A luggage wheel decided to fall off while I was at the HKG airport, so I had to drag the rather full suitcase along on the remaining wheel. So far it made it to SFO, let's hope it won't give out for the rest of the trip. (The suitcase held all the way, but I am aching from having to pull quite hard.)
Being upgraded to Business Class was great. I did manage some sleep, but was waken up by the lap kid behind me a few hours before landing, and couldn't get back to sleep - his continued whining didn't help. A better person than me would ask what's wrong, I just sulked. Breakfast was a choice of two carb dishes (congee or pancakes), so was a disappointment.
I stopped by both a Plaza Premium Lounge (Priority Pass) and the Chase Sapphire Lounge (United Polaris). The food offerings are quite disappointing.
Staff at Chase Sapphire Club told me it would take only 10 minutes for ordered food to be delivered. I didn't find any of the items particularly interesting.
One wheel came off while I was at the airport. I managed to lug this along without too much problem. This may or may not be covered by Travelpro's lifetime warranty; we shall see.
I think late afternoons are not busy periods at west coast airports. Too early to have red eyes to the east coast and Asia being one of the reasons. Indeed the United Club was quiet when I got here, and was considerably busier an hour later.
With an empty seat next to me, the redeye (UA366) from SFO to EWR was pleasant enough. Uber and Lyft were charging around $60 for the trip home, so I took the train ($13.20). Anne picked me up.
